The first morning at Fredriksborg Hotell on an island in the Stockholm archipelago is a glorious one. The sun rays hit my eyes through the curtain. I hear the sound of rumbling engines outside the window and immediately jump out of bed to watch the enormous passenger ferry pass by at what seems to be just an armlength away. Can I touch it if I reach out? A relaxing weekend at Fredriksborg – one of those getaways you will think of on a cold and rainy day.
The archipelago of Stockholm. 24 000 islands and one of the largest archipelagos in the world. We are on the island of Värmdö, the largest island in this archipelago and the third largest island in Sweden. My former colleague Jessika and her boyfriend Pontus run Fredriksborg Hotel, and we are staying here one night in June. Luckily, the weather gods are shining their most glorious summer rays down upon us. In Sweden, weather in June can be quite unpredictable. Or in any month for that matter.
Waterway
We are taking the fun way to Värmdö. First arriving by boat from Stockholm to Vaxholm, we then go by bus to Rindö. As both Rindö and Värmdö are islands, we cross the waters by getting on two car ferries. The rides are short but enjoyable. And free of charge.
Fredriksborg Hotel
Fredriksborg hotel lies beautifully on a hill on Värmdö island. On the opposite side, on the island of Rindö, you overlook the fortress of Oskar Fredriksborg from the 1870s. The fortress of Fredriksborg is built 140 years earlier, and since 2013 part of a small and charming hotel. Read our separate hotel review on Fredriksborg here.
The stone barracks have been refurbished to hold modern and stylish double rooms, some with stunning views of the water. More rooms can be found in the red wooden officers building with a large terrace overlooking the sea. We sleep in room Tage, a small attic room with a round window facing the water. I haven’t slept so good in ages.
The tower of the fortress of Fredriksborg is the true crown of the hill. You can take the stairs all the way up to the roof and get a magnificent 360-view over the surrounding landscape and waters. I am not a big fan of hights, so I skip the last flight of rather steep stairs up. But according to Pda, the views are stunning from up there.
A guided tour
Pontus holds a much appreciated historic tour of Oxdjupstornet every day for hotel guests between May and September. Due to a population of bats that hibernates in the tower during winter, the tour moves to the cannon tower from October to April. We really recommend this guided tour. Pontus is an engaged and well-informed guide.
You can actually rent the tower for parties and wedding as well as the hotel and restaurant of course. If I ever were to marry, I would hold the festivities here for sure. Or be wed by Elvis in Vegas. Such a tough choice. Which I will never have to make. As we are not the marrying types. Anyways, you could have an excellent wedding here in this place filled with history and romance.
The restaurant
We are having our dinner in the orangery in the garden. The menu is Scandinavian with an Italian touch and has vegan choices. We eat the most splendid fish. Grilled char with potato- and Jerusalem artichoke purée, fried Jerusalem artichoke, browned butter and fennel dill.
For starter, a fresh tray with three different charcuteries, parmesan cheese, olives and artichoke and watermelon with mint yoghurt served with feta cheese and roasted pine nuts. And to top off this very tasty dinner, we have apple pie with lightly whisked vanilla cream for dessert. We also share a bottle of fine Portuguese white wine. Not willing to leave the cosy orangery yet, a couple of gin and tonics get to round off the dinner.
Honestly, I can’t remember having a more relaxed and delightful dinner than this. When Jessika comes out to check on our well-being, it feels complete. Such a nice gesture. The atmosphere is such only a light summer’s night in Sweden can bring. We are not ready to sleep just yet.
For more information on the restaurant, please read here.
Corps de Garde-pier
The sun is setting on the horizon, and we are sitting down by the Corps de Garde-pier on the stairs leading to the water. It is silent. A small boat is passing us, the propeller creating small creases on the water. A seabird is surfing on the minimal breeze. The air is warm, and the sky is golden. Just a perfect moment one wishes one could freeze in time. To take out on a cold and rainy hopeless day. Instead, I write this travel story. To remember it by.
I do have problems with existing right here right now. Never satisfied with what is now. Always on the move, on the run, planning ahead. But this time. Oh boy, am I enjoying this moment. I am even comfortable enough to be photographed. My hair might look like it’s on fire, but I am certainly not. I am calm like the sea. Perhaps Corona did bring some good after all? Contemplation, reflection and learning how to be present.
It's all about the atmosphere
Fredriksborg is a perfectly located hotel. It’s a place with a feeling of Wow! The views are to die for, and the history and the mystery of Fredriksborg are irresistible. Jessika and Pontus are also the most attentive and sweet hosts. I am coming back for sure. Perhaps at Christmas time for some Christmas smorgasbord? That should be a treat! On our last day, we are enjoying a fantastic breakfast in the sunny garden. I never want to leave, to be honest!
You truly get an idea of the huge size of the cruise ships passing by in Oxdjupet below the hotel. We have passed here many times as passengers. It’s really exciting to see it all from ”the other side”. I can really recommend a cruise from Stockholm to either Åland or Finland with one of these cruise ships. The exit and entry through the archipelago are magnificent. Thew are two large companies cruising these waters: Viking Line or Tallink Silja. For updates on the coronavirus, visit their websites.
Pda, our photographer, was either a bit tipsy or had lost his reading glasses because all our pictures of the sweet hosting couple were out of focus. But I think this one quite nailed it still! We want to thank you both for making our stay at your hotel such a relaxing and memorable one. It was so nice chatting with you!
What goes on around?
We have a few hours between check out and our bus back to Stockholm. Jessika suggests we take the short walk down to the water and then back through the woods. The area around Fredriksborg is military, and we stumble upon a battery along the way. The battery of Skanstjärnen is flooded and cannot be fully reached, but you can climb a small hill to get a view of it. The hotel also lends bicycles for free.
Down by the harbour of the car ferry across to Rindö lies a café/restaurant called ”Fika”. Quite Swedish and all. We stop here to get some ice cream and a soda before taking the bus to Stockholm. It seems to be a well-visited place during the summer.
Our weekend at Fredriksborg Hotel has come to an end. We cannot highly recommend a stay here. If you are in need of a romantic and relaxing hotel with great food and heavenly beds, look no further. This is it.
We combine our stay at Fredriksborg Hotel with a day in Vaxholm. Read about our day at this charming island here. For information on how to get to Fredriksborg Hotell, read our hotel review.
